Thursday, February 28, 2008

Day 5: Sunday, Feb 24, Auckland/Waitomo

Today we went to church at a CRC church in south Auckland (same denomination as the first church we went to in Sydney). This was the smallest church we had been to and maybe had 40 people. It was mostly gray hairs, but there were a surprising number of kids in their early-twenties. Everything was a capella because they had no pianist. The building indicated that it had been a modest church and had shrunk, and this was confirmed by an older gentleman. Apparently the neighborhood had become lower-class and then populated by immigrants and a lot of the church members passed away or moved away. The guy sitting next to me was Dutch, probably in his 70’s, and might have been a founding member of the church. All the churches we have visited so far have had tea, coffee, and snacks afterward with almost everyone mingling afterward, and this church was no exception. We got an invitation to someone’s house for lunch and accepted.

We had lunch with a family that happens to homeschool. The dad is a native kiwi, the mom is from Scotland, and they have one biological kid. However, they adopted a 4yo (now 17) Russian orphan that they thought was an only child. Not until after they adopted her did they find out that she had two older (teen) siblings that this family then decided to adopt. They then received a note from the siblings referring to yet another sibling. In the end this family adopted four Russians ranging from 17 to 4. They spoke very little English and their new family spoke no Russian. Everything worked out and they joke about it quite a bit. Their son taught English in South Korea for a while, so they also had a kid from SK stay with them for a semester at one point.

Our conversation ran over most of the same topics covered with other people. NZ has some lingering land disputes with the Maori, but they are very grateful that their problems are tiny compared to the Aussies’. NZ has a parliamentary system like Germany’s (I can’t remember the acronym, but I think it is MMP) and unlike Australia. You cast two votes: one for a person and one for a party. The people are elected in a straightforward manner. However, the remaining seats are filled proportionally by the parties according to the percentage of votes they get. If there are 10 seats for parties and the Labour party gets 50% of the party vote, they fill 5 seats with people of their own choosing. Apparently the Green Party candidates routinely get trounced, but because of the warm fuzzies connected with the idea of the Green Party they have enough MPs (Members of Parliament) to be a minor but sometimes deciding force. (Our host said the Green party is frequently called the Watermelon Party because they are “green on the outside and red on the inside.”) Our host’s opinion was that Helen Clark is very politically shrewd and that the Election Finance Act is part of a calculated bid to keep Labour in power. That seems to be a consensus view and I would have to agree. Squelching political speech (including ads) always helps the party in power. NZ is non-nuclear. This means they have no nuclear power plants, but it also means that they don’t allow vessels with nuclear weapons to dock in their ports. (I’m not sure about nuclear-powered vessels.)

After lunch we drove south to Waitomo. Waitomo is home to several caves famous for their formations but also for their glowworms. The worms really were interesting and the experience was a little other-worldly. These worms spend most of their life in the larval stage, during which they hang from the cave ceiling and drop down several short (6 in) strands of sticky string like spider web netting. The excrement on the tip of their abdomen reacts with something (air, I think) to produce a fluorescent glow that attracts bugs. The result looks like a lot of tiny green LED lights installed in the cave ceiling. The lights are very dim individually, but in the cave underneath them you could easily see the people with you. They primarily live above underground rivers that bring bugs into the cave. It seems that a lot of them survive without outside bugs – eggs are laid in groups of about twenty, and the first bug to hatch eats its brothers and sisters. If two worms come in contact, the bigger one eats the smaller one. After the hatched flies mate they are attracted to lights like any other bug and end up becoming food for other glowworm larvae.

Blurred glowworms. Sorry, no tripod. The streaked dots are luminescent glowworms; the light is revealing the web-like feeding strands. Click on the photo for a better view.

We saw a couple wearing a Michigan sweater and a Berkeley sweater. Turns out they are French and German and have never been to the U.S. Why the sweaters? They were cheap.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Day 4: Saturday, Feb 23, Auckland

Today we mostly just chilled and did some planning. I read a NZ newspaper and learned quite a bit. Apparently the Election Finance Act (see NZ Day 2) has unintentionally caused Labour a bit of embarrassment because they had to reveal some donations from a very wealthy guy named Owen Clark that they had previously denied. Interestingly, the business building we saw dedicated was called the Owen Clark Building because he donated money to fund it (though we didn’t know it at the time). People were also atwitter because at the dedication the PM didn’t give Owen Clark the tradition hongi or Maori greeting. I think it’s basically an “Eskimo kiss” – touching noses. Anyway, people saw this as an attempt to distance herself from Owen Clark, but apparently Clark is something like a prima donna and people are waiting to see what happens between him and Labour.

We also got the rent car we will be using for most of the rest of the trip. It’s as bad as the Australia rent car was good. It’s a Toyota Lucida (the next generation of Toyota Previa that was sold in the U.S. back in the ‘90’s and discontinued when the Sienna came along). It has every option that isn’t useful.

-They went to the trouble to install power locks on every door, but then put the only power lock switch on the driver’s door.

-They paid to install a little motor to fully close the door if you don’t get it closed all the way, but they didn’t make the sliding door automatic.

-They installed two power sunroofs, but only one of the rear four windows opens at all and it is manual.

-They installed a backup sonar that beeps all the time but decided not to include cruise control.

-They gave us a ski rack on top but no key fob to lock/unlock the doors.

The seats are very low; distance between the seats doesn’t do you much good if your knees are level with your nose.

[Addendum: we found out that lots of NZ cars are secondhand imports from Japan. This explains a lot, since our car has stickers in Japanese in it. It also has an extra mirror mounted on the back so the driver can see the back bumper, which makes sense if you’re trying to park in Tokyo traffic. The lack of cruise control might also be explained by this because I can’t imagine you would be able to do much cruising in Tokyo traffic.]

On the subject of driving, roads both here and in Australia only use white paint for road stripes. That might not sound like much of a comment, but it’s bigger than you think. If you see a road with solid white stripes on either side and a white dashed line down the middle it could mean a) an undivided road with one lane in either direction or b) one side of a divided two-lane road. I’ve driven on both, and they are identical. You just have to know what sort of road you got on.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Day 3: Friday, Feb 22, Auckland

This was in the Auckland Zoo. This guy's title is almost three lines long, and that's only because they got tired of chiseling and made the last three things initials -- "G.C.B. O.M. G.C.V.O." That means he was knighted, won the Order of Merit, and something else I couldn't figure out.

On Friday we wandered down to the quay and then took a bus to the Auckland Zoo. It got rave reviews; while I thought the display of NZ species was very good, I thought it was only so-so as a zoo as a whole. Part of this might be due to the fact that their red panda that I really wanted to see wasn’t on display for some reason. We saw kiwis of course, but we also saw taruana, which looks like a lizard (though is not technically a lizard), matures after 25-35 years, and lives to be 60-100 yrs old. The sex of its offspring depends on the temperature of the soil in which the eggs incubate. There were interesting bird species as well.

We took the bus back to town. We didn’t use the Auckland mass transit extensively, but the bus system was really nice. Each bus had an LCD screen that showed what looked like Google Maps with the bus’ position in real time and had dots for all of the stops.

After taking the bus back to town we wandered around to the Sky Tower. I think it might actually be the SKY Tower, as in SKY TV. It advertises that it is the “tallest tower” or the “tallest free-standing structure” in the southern hemisphere. That is particularly interesting because Sydney has a tower that is the “tallest building” in the southern hemisphere. If you stuck the two towers next to each other you would find that the “building” portion – i.e. the viewing deck and restaurant – is higher up in the Sydney tower, whereas NZ’s viewing deck/restaurant are lower but the needle-like tower on top makes it a taller total structure than Sydney’s. You can do a “tower jump” off NZ’s tower. The brochure makes it look like bungee jumping, but we saw some people do it and it’s really just a controlled free-fall. There are two guide wires from the tower to the base. The harness is suspended between the two of them. The attachment point on the harness is behind the person (meaning you fall skydive-style). Upon release the person just falls down, but it is obviously braked and gives you a gentle landing with no “bounce up.”

That night Auckland University was having a Chinese Lantern Festival. We went and nibbled from various street vendors, watched martial arts demonstrations, and listened to some Chinese opera. The guy who was narrating/announcing the rotating martial arts exhibits (put on by local martial arts schools) tried to spice things up by making jokes about what was going on. They were good-natured, but the funniest thing was the guy trying to make lame jokes while the demonstrators tried to go through their choreographed routines with the seriousness and dignity that goes with martial arts. The shows were a hit with the drunken guy sitting on the ground inside the rope fence, and he vociferous cheered on the performers.

We also saw a Red Bull car with the license plate WINGS and a rice rocket with the license plate COP ME.

We changed hostels and stayed Friday and Saturday nights at the Auckland YMCA. It was a great place with a pool table downstairs (albeit beat up) and a TV with rugby and cricket on. It really is fun to stay at the YMCA.


Don't. I'm not sure what, but just don't.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Day 2: Thursday, Feb 21, Auckland

Today we slept in and then went to the Domain park and the Museum of Auckland. The museum was great. The building was originally built as a war memorial. On the third floor is the memorial with names of Kiwis who died in several wars carved into stone blocks built into the wall of a hallway. There is a large empty block upon which is engraved at the bottom, “LET THESE PANELS NEVER BE FILLED.” I thought it was actually one of the best memorials I have been to – highly respectful but also moving. You should also keep in mind that that kiwi contribution may not be huge in terms of numbers, but in percentage terms their men sent to the front and resulting casualties are probably comparable with or higher than the U.S. in the World Wars. Afterwards we wandered through the Domain and climbed some excellent climbing trees.

Afterward we just explored up and down streets. Auckland is the product of a lot of volcanoes, and consequently Auckland is very hilly. There are really no flat streets except the several next to the harbor. We again found kebab and pizza to be a typical combination and found lots of Asian food.


New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark on the right.

We passed the University of Auckland’s new business school building on our way back and saw a few (5-7) policeman and a small crowd (25 people or so) gathered in the courtyard. We went to go look and it turns out that the prime minister (Helen Clark) was about to arrive to dedicate the building. It was a reality check because we walked up and watched the PM get out of her car and enter the building from about 30 ft away. When we asked what the event was, a security guy told us and said we could go inside and watch the ceremony if we wanted.






There were also about 10 protestors with tape over their mouths and generic "free speech” signs waiting for her. One sign said to “repeal the Electoral Finance Act.” I asked a guy afterward what it was about and it turns out they were protesting the NZ equivalent of the McCain-Feingold law. NZ’s Labour party has been in power for about a decade and recently pushed through a law that practically bans campaign ads during election years (i.e. one out of every three years). I don’t know the details, but that was the way several people over several days described it. The group was led by an older guy in a suit named John someone. He saw my A&M shirt and said that he lived in America for some time when he was young and that his first girlfriend went to A&M.

With the Kiwis: Day 1: Wednesday, Feb 20, Auckland

Today we traveled from Cairns to Auckland, NZ. Yeah, that’s about it. A flight to Sydney, a 6-hr layover, and a flight to Auckland. The only other news is that I left my book in the seatback pocket, which made me really mad. (I highly recommend Stephen Ambrose’s Rise of Globalism about U.S. foreign policy, though I give all his books an asterisk after he plagiarized.)

This past semester I had a prof who commented that “the Aussies and Limeys hate it when you get them confused.” People in the class got a puzzled look until he was asked if he actually meant Kiwis.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Day 11: Tuesday, Feb 19, Cairns

Today we headed up to Kuranda, a site in a rainforest outside of Cairns. We got there by 45-minute cable car trip, though there were two optional stops along the way to break things up. I had seen some of the vegetation elsewhere, but we tagged along with a ranger tour here and I learned a lot about what I had seen. There are these things called basket ferns that – you guessed it – grow like baskets. They are epiphytes, meaning they live on a host plant (in this case on a tree trunk) but don’t take any nutrients. Basket ferns use their basket to trap falling matter and taking nutrients from it, in essence creating an elevated compost pile. The result is that other things can grow and live in there as well. One of these is the strangler fig. One we saw had actually grown from the top down – it sprouted in a basket fern, grew roots down to the ground some 30 ft below, and then proceeded to thicken its roots and grow outwards. In doing so it grows roots around the host tree, eventually strangling and killing it. Long-term this means a hollow tree (since the fig grew around a tree that dies and rots) and a living place animals. There is also a “lawyer cane,” a type of vine that has hooks everywhere and uses them to latch onto tall plants and grow up toward the sunlight. Our ranger said that they were so named because once they latch onto something “it can’t get away, just like a lawyer.” If you cut it, pure rainwater pours out from the inside of the stalk. I don’t know if the story about the name this is true or not, but a lawyer in the group joked after hearing about the water that “at least their good for something,” upon which someone else commented that they were, but “only after cut in half.”

A lone tree growing on a rock belies Barren Falls' name.

Another highlight was Barren Falls. It isn’t nearly as big as Niagara or the like, but it was the most ferocious falls I have ever seen. Muddy water in the flooded river crashed like breakers over rocks in the middle of the falls. Torrents of water hit these rocks and actually splashed up a good 15 ft before plunging into the gorge. From some angles all you could see was a brown mist created by the water.

At the base there was an aboriginal culture center we visited. It advertised that it was the only approved cultural center of the tribe, etc. Basically it’s run by the tribe for profit. It was mostly interesting and I learned a lot.

I found a paper lying around tonight and read it. Another big bank in Australia is taking a loss due to involvement in the U.S. subprime market. It’s interesting to see the ripple effect from this end.

Australian lingo for the day: “licensed” and “BYO.” On our first day we ate at a restaurant that had a sign that simply said BYO. We couldn’t figure out what it was you were supposed to bring, so we asked. Here in Australia places that don’t have liquor licenses usually say BYO somewhere, meaning you can bring your own beer or wine. There is sometimes a “corking fee” that you pay to use restaurant glasses. If a restaurant says it is licensed that means it has a liquor license and therefore does not welcome outside alcohol. Usually a restaurant’s licensed vs. BYO status is at the top of the menu or on a sign outside the door.

Day 10: Monday, Feb 18, Cairns

We spent most of Monday out on the Great Barrier Reef. Cairns is a jumping-off point for the GBR. I didn’t expect the reef to be as pretty as it is in all the pictures because, well, the only see the best pictures of a place. However, it was more than I expected. It really was like swimming in a giant aquarium tank and the colors were quite vivid. I had only been snorkeling once (off of Thailand) and this was much better. Part of the reason was that we had a great day – it was only partially cloudy and didn’t rain until we were headed back about 4pm. It was our first day in Cairns that hadn’t been totally cloudy and raining by noon.

On the way back we talked to another Texan named Layne. He graduated from UT about ’95 or so, worked for A&M’s Government Relations division under Michael O’Quinn (and quit just prior to the session that I worked), and now works for a pharmaceutical contractor setting up conferences for doctors. That might sound odd, but having interned for a start-up pharmaceutical company myself (Introgen Therapeutics) I can understand. Companies scour the world during clinical testing to find patients that fit the parameters of the study. In Introgen’s case they had to pay doctors and a patient in Russia and then fly someone their monthly to check on the site and collect the data, and they had other patients scattered around the world. Layne organizes conferences at the beginning to educate doctors on the procedure/drug, and it has taken him around the world. He made his first international trip in 2002 and Australia is his 50th country. That’s a lot of jet lag.

Aussie lingo for the day: trolley=shopping cart. Stores talk about their “trolleys,” which are their shopping carts. Most all of the shopping carts over here have four wheels that turn instead of the two that is typical in the U.S. The stores here also have narrower aisles and a more cramped feel and are typically smaller than their U.S. counterparts.

Day 9: Sunday, Feb 17, Cairns

Today we went to church at a Baptist church within walking distance of the hostel. It was about the same size as the Sydney church, which is to say it was small. It was also a good mix of age ranges and ethnicities.

We had a fascinating lunch. We ate with a number of people from church. I was at a table with a lifelong Aussie (Allen), an immigrant from Singapore who has been here 30 years (Alice), and a Filipino who is trying to get citizenship (Belle); while Allen was the main voice, I think we got a decent range of perspectives and opinions. I had to wait on my food to be cooked, but when I joined the conversation Allen was talking about the U.S. economy. At one point he said for some unrelated reason that “Aussies pay attention to the U.S. much more than you pay attention to us simply because we have to,” and it could have applied to this as well. We talked about the subprime mess and he talked about how, for all practical purposes, he thought the U.S. was bankrupt. The conversation ended up going everywhere, and I loved it.

We talked about American foreign policy and domestic policy. He characterized our foreign policy as usually “supporting a devil and creating a worse devil.” He also said he was sorry that Hillary hadn’t gotten her universal healthcare passed. We didn’t talk very much about Australia’s healthcare system, but he said that Australians “couldn’t fathom a system where the richest nation in the world has its poor die of disease on the streets.” We said that in actuality the U.S. does have universal healthcare, but it’s via the emergency rooms. No one who shows up for healthcare can be turned away; it’s not an efficient system and we have poor, but neither are we third-world in our healthcare.

We also talked about Social Security. In 1993, Australia implemented superannuation funds. Employees are basically forced to have an IRA. Employers must contribute 9% of an employee’s salary to this fund, which can be invested in a range of approved funds. This contribution is behind the scenes and does not come out of an employee’s salary. People can’t touch it until they are a certain age. The account is tied to the person, not the job, so it follows people if they change jobs. (Alice said Singapore has had the same system for a long time, but the contribution there is 25%.) They also have something called Social Security, but it basically makes up the difference between what someone gets out of their superannuation fund and a minimum income. It sounds like they still have some of our type of government-funded Social Security, but they are phasing it out by replacing it with the mostly-private superannuation funds. Allen said that “if we could do it [make the change], there is still hope for the U.S.”

We also talked about immigration. Allen and Belle recently got married, and how they met is a story in itself. Belle is from Manila, where she ended up basically raising her siblings. I don’t know her whole history, but her two brothers both graduated from college, she somehow managed to get a mechanical engineering degree, and she raised her mentally-challenged youngest sibling as well. Somewhere along the way she ended up in Brunei working for a construction company. I’ll interject here that when I went to Qatar, my first memory is landing in Dubai and having a swarm of Thai or Filipino men board and clean the plane before we flew on to Qatar. I was naively expecting Arabs, but I quickly learned that the Middle East imports a huge number of cheap laborers from Indochina and the Philippines and the unskilled laborers lived in squalor. Anyway, Belle’s next assignment was Oman. She said it was technically an open country, but that women weren’t believed to have souls, putting them on the level of dogs and cattle, and that it was common for single Asian women to be raped. (I'm not sure who she was saying believes this -- the population at large, a certain sect, etc.) She said that a company car took her directly from her office to her house and she had instructions to not set foot outside her door, which were meant quite literally. They went to the grocery store in groups of five and carried box cutters, which was illegal but deemed a necessary risk. It sounded awful. It sounded very little like Qatar.

The other part of the immigration discussion centered on who is welcome in Australia. When Australia left its White Australia policy it decided to treat all immigrants equally. After a while, however, it moved toward being more selective in the nationalities of those it let in. It seems that a large part of it is anti-Muslim, though I doubt anyone will publicly say so. It was said that Australia would let people of any color in, but you had to let Australia adopt ideas from your culture without letting you impose your culture on Australia.

The Australia/U.K. ties also came up. Australians are pretty mad at the British, it seems, and retain only formal ties and not much even in the way of positive sentiments. Alice said they were grateful for the British example of democracy and common law, etc., but apparently the U.K. had to impose restrictions on trade with Australia in exchange for becoming part of the European Common Market. Agricultural exports are a big deal for Australia, so this was not well received. Australians love to beat the British at anything, and apparently there is a shirt that cricket fans wear that says “Don’t you wish your grandfather stole a loaf of bread.” (It refers to the fact that Australia was originally populated with petty criminals from England, and therefore having a thief for a grandfather would probably have meant the Englishman would instead have been born an Aussie.)

The final analysis is that the few Australians I’ve talked with think they have a very bright future. The economy is doing well and looking like it will continue. Their currency is strong (it has gained significantly on the USD since we’ve been here, which hurts) and their Asian neighbors are becoming economic powerhouses (opening doors for Australian trade). Interest rates for a 6 mo CD top 7%. Australia doesn’t really have any foreign affairs issues, though the flip side is that the reason they don’t have foreign trouble is that they aren’t an international powerhouse. Immigration and aboriginal issues seem to be big, but neither is crushing. Allen said that the geography book he used growing up said something to the effect of “poor Australia, its Asian neighbors will never be anything more than subsistence farmers and thus Australia will never amount to much.” Today’s books certainly say no such thing.

Aussie lingo of the day: “hire.” Here, “hire” frequently means “rent.” You hire a towel if you didn’t bring your own, for example, whereas in American use we rarely hire objects. I’m cheating a bit because I have also heard the word used this way in countries besides Australia.

Day 8: Saturday, Feb 16, Cairns

Today we had to get up at 4:40am to drive to Melbourne and catch a flight. (We snuck out, but I still felt bad for our roommates.) This was the result of a planning mix-up, but it was not without its benefits. I walked out the next morning to load the car and instead spent some time staring at the sky. Halls Gap is a tiny town (the auto show might have added 50% to the tally) with little light pollution, so you could clearly see the entire sky. It was probably better than the time I went to Brazos Bend to go stargazing. The Milky Way was clearly visible. Staring up with no noise and almost no lights was great. As I drove to Melbourne I got to watch the rising sun slowly erase the stars as it painted sunrise colors in the sky.

The other thing I got to see were all the drowsy driving signs. I have only seen a couple of drunk (or “drink”) driving signs, but there is a plethora of drowsy-driving signs. I can’t remember a lot of them, but some included:
-Yawning? Take a powernap.
-Microsleep can kill in seconds.
-Drowsy? Change drivers.
-A 15 minute powernap could save the rest of your life.
They were accompanied by regular “powernap stations,” which we would call a public rest stop. We also passed what is our Aussie lingo for the day: “lorry train.” A lorry train is just a cab pulling several linked trailers. Depending on your state laws you may have seen this sort of thing with UPS trucks or the like in the States. However, they are always two shorter trailers. Here all the trailers are full-sized. We didn’t see any with more than two trailers, but apparently they can be a couple of trailers longer.

We caught our flight to Cairns. As we arrived and taxied to the gate it looked like arrived in Papua New Guinea. The airport was small and was enclosed in tropical plants. We got off the plane and were greeted with a blast of hot, humid air that made us think we were back in Houston. It’s the rainy season over here, and when they say the rainy season, they mean it. Very day the pattern has been cloudy in the morning, drizzling most of the afternoon in ten or twenty minute spurts, and then dumps monsoon-like rains in the evening.

The girl behind the counter at our hostel was eating lychee, and I was very happy to see them. Lychee is a fruit that I loved in Singapore. Apparently it’s out of season, however, and I’ve had trouble finding it since.

Cairns is probably my least favorite place so far. It is very touristy – though really it’s just concentrated tourism, since the “touristiness” of Sydney and other places is diluted over a big city. Cairns by the ocean seems to be a series of restaurants, tourist trinket shops, and travel agencies. I hadn’t seen any anywhere else we have visited, but there are an unbelievable number of travel agencies focused on the “beach bum student” crowd. I feel like I’m living in a tourist bubble instead of in Australia. The reason Cairns is on the map, however, is that it is near the tropics and also a good jumping-off point for the Great Barrier Reef.

There are also a lot of places that cater to or focus on Japanese/Korean tourists. Lots of things are also written in Japanese, which hasn’t been the case elsewhere. There is a little mall that is pretty much Korean and includes a job-placement outfit devoted to Koreans. I have seen more people who look like they are aboriginal here than everywhere else combined, but it is still a small number. Of that number, most look like they are living on the street and the others don’t look like they are much better off.

Australia seems to be very diverse, but only in certain ways. There are hordes of Japanese, Koreans, and Chinese. There are lots of Europeans and Canadians, but most are traveling. What is conspicuously missing are Africans or anyone black besides aborigines, South/Central Americans, and people from the Indochina peninsula. I’m not sure if that is simply because I have seen a small sample of Australia, if it is due to Australia’s immigration policies, or if those people just don’t want to come here – though I know that the last is not true for Indonesians, at least.

Australian lingo for the day: “-ie.” Take any noun, add “-ie,” and you have a new word. People talk about brickies, surfies, barbies, etc. which mean bricklayer, surfer, and BBQ, respectively. It seems to be part of the general Australian language that has shortened versions of lots of things.

Day 7: Friday, Feb 15, Grampians

A "wild" koala, if you can ever describe koalas as wild.

After staying the night in Warrambool we set out for the Grampians. The range of mountains lends its name to a national park as well. Halls Gap is in the middle of the Grampians and served as our base camp. It turned out to be a tiny town, which suited us just fine. Driving there my dad noted that the speed limit was generally 100 kph or about 65 mph. That doesn’t sound odd except that these were pretty windy mountain roads and the speed limit was the same as on the expressways in Melbourne. We also saw a sign telling us that “drink driving” is dangerous. They also list prices for a “serve” instead of for a “serving.” They seem to have noun/verb agreement problems. We also saw a government sign that read, “There’s 3 million reasons…” Yes, I know, I have issues.

The Grampians from afar

Our day in the Grampians was a nice change. We saw more scenic sights and ended the day relatively early. We had a dinner that included kangaroo steaks and then a quiet evening. After dark I wandered into town alone and was drawn toward a tent from which came strains of Elton John’s “Mr. Pianoman.” We had seen classic cars driving through town all day, and it turns out that this was the kickoff for a weekend car show for hot-rodded classic cars. Everyone had come into town and taken up residence in the trailer camping lot, so I started wandering the streets of the trailer town and looked at the cars. A guy I talked to had a 1932 Ford. He envied the U.S. classic car buffs he said because usually the only cars imported to Australia were family sedans. We had seen one Camaro in Australia, and this guy confirmed that it was an import. I also saw a bunch of kids riding chopper-style bicycles around and wearing helmets like those from the Nazi German army. It turns out that one kid made them all (and did a very good job, I might add) and it was his hobby to tinker with bikes just like his dad’s hobby was tinkering with cars.

View from part of the Grampians into Halls Gap.

Aussie lingo of the day: “No worries.” It may or may not be Australia’s unofficial philosophy, but it is definitely a prevalent phrase. It replaces “no problem,” “you’re welcome,” and other such phrases. You hear it everywhere.

Day 6: Thursday, Feb 14, Great Ocean Road

We got up early this morning and drove the Great Ocean Road. It connects Geelong with Warrnambool, weaving its way along the coast. It’s about 300km long I would guess, though I don’t remember exactly. It really was spectacular. The landscape changed a number of times along the way. Some places we drove right on the cliff in between the ocean crashing below and trees up on cliffs to our right. The interesting thing was that at water level there were tables of rocks jutting out. Think of the angular rock strata you see when a road is cut into a hill, but they were jutting out from the water. They were probably covered at high tide. This appeared for a long way along the ocean – not one uniform rock formation, but separate tables. It was if a mountain had fallen into the sea and eroded to this. We also came across lots of little estuaries connected to the ocean at high tide. At one point we deviated about 10km inland into a rainforest and stopped at a tall waterfall. It would have been a lot better in the spring as the winter rains flowed down it, but it was still great.

John and I conquer Erskine Falls.

The Australian philosophy on nature is interesting. Their nature sights are frequently unmanned – no rangers telling you what to do and what not to do. There are viewing platforms a lot of times, but in the case of the waterfall (Erskine Falls) for example, there were some stairs down to the rocks in the stream with a sign telling you to be careful. You could climb up to the very base of the waterfall, and you just assumed the risks and responsibilities. In the U.S. it would have been carefully roped off. There are signs telling you to take your “rubbish” with you and virtually no trash cans (because they are unmanned and hence no one is there to clean out garbage cans) but there is virtually no litter. The Australians are very environmentally conscious – lots of ads promoting companies as green, signs everywhere about recycling, etc., things in the news about this or that environmental issue, displays at the parks about global warming or endangered species – but at the same time they leave their natural wonders out there and assume people will be respectful and responsible. Judging from what we’ve seen, it’s a safe bet. I really like it, and it’s a breath of fresh air from the overly-controlling rules-oriented policy it seems that Americans are sometimes prone to. I thought it was particularly interesting because I don’t think the Australian government is very laissez-faire in other areas.

Several of the 12 Apostles.

After the windy cliff-hugging roads the path cut overland for a bit. First it went through hairpin turns in the forest that were on par with the scenic roads through the Great Smokeys, then it became more rounded and rolling roads through backcountry milk farms. The scenery here looked like hilly Midwestern America in a way, but the hills were different in a way I can’t quite describe. We then got into drier country with vegetation that reminded me of the Texas hill country. We ended up back by the coast on pretty straight roads along a flat plain elevated above the ocean. While the previous Oceanside had seemed to be very windy and unpredictable, this Oceanside cliff was pretty straight except for coves that had been worn away into the Cliffside. The rock at the beginning had been dark and hard, the rock here seemed sedimentary with a hard base of something else. While I personally thought the whole drive was one of the three most beautiful I’ve ever seen, this later part is what most people come to see. There are lots of formations of rock just off the coast in the ocean that have been left behind by erosion. One formation is called the 12 Apostles, though there are no longer twelve due to the collapse of a couple. They line the coast, stretching out over a km I would guess. They reminded me of Phi Phi and the surrounding islands off Thailand. Time and water have made most of them narrower at the base than the top, so I would expect more of them to disappear in the next couple of decades. The drop off from the cliff to the sea was probably about 30-40m (about 100+ ft). The vegetation here and for the rest of the Road was almost tundra-like. No trees, only small, rounded bushes with narrow leaves, some vines, some moss, and little wildlife besides flies and the occasional small lizard or bird. Other formations include London Bridge, which used to be a small rock bridge to one of the islands off the coast until it collapsed in 1990. I don’t know if it was named London Bridge before or after the collapse. There is also the Grotto, a series of stair-stepped coves where weak acid ate away at the stone and now it looks like volcanic landscape with little pools. There were a lot of other great spots – and some of the grandeur is simply the fact that this type of landscape can continue for miles on end. We were aided some by the weather, which was slightly cold, very windy, and cloudy, lending a bleak atmosphere that suited the landscape.

The Grotto.

After the Apostles the tourist crowds rapidly died off, which made everything a lot better. We ran into one couple that had been on our flight from the U.S. We also followed some people we dubbed the Nutri-Grain People, because we didn’t know who they were but we kept seeing their van with a box of Nutri-Grain cereal in the back window. We also saw a lot of little old Mitsubishi vans with interesting paint jobs. It turns out that you can rent them and they’re basically tiny campers – two seats with two beds and a sink in the back. This was my second day driving, and after quickly knocking the rust off in the morning I drove the entire road simply because I enjoyed it. I enjoy driving anyway, and threading my way through the roller coaster-like road at the beginning with every peak yielding a new stunning view was great, even if I was playing Mario Andretti in a minivan. I still like big parking places and I turned my windshield wipers on a couple of times, but otherwise my driving is becoming subconscious again.

The Australians obviously know their driving is counterintuitive, because there are lots of sings long the road that say “DRIVE ON LEFT in Australia” with a diagram.

Signs for dumb tourists like me.

Aussie lingo of the day: Happy as Larry=happy as a clam. I was talking with a guy about something he got at the Chinese New Year’s celebration in Sydney that occurred while we were there and he said that he it made him “happy as Larry.”

Day 5: Wednesday, Feb 13, Melbourne

We woke up and got to the airport for a 10am flight to Melbourne. Australia is about the size of the continental U.S. but has only 1/15th the population. That means that cities are spread out, almost all along the coast somewhere. After landing in Melbourne we picked up our rent minivan (Kia Carnival) and were off. That afternoon we drove to Phillip Island SE of Melbourne about 150km, then drove back past Melbourne and ended in Geelong. Melbourne is on the north end of a bay, with Phillip Island jutting out from the SE corner and Geelong located on the west side of the bay.

This was my first time driving on the left side of the road. It was initially much more difficult than I thought. It’s like being in a culture where smiling means you’re angry and frowning means you’re happy – you’re trying to reverse what has become subconscious. Roundabouts were new, and you have to be careful when you make a turn that you don’t instinctively turn into the right lane. This might sound odd, but the hardest part might be using the turn signal. Our car has two stems off the steering column, one of which controls the windshield wipers and one of which is the turn signal. This is common in the U.S., too, but they switched the stems in Australia. You know you have to concentrate on the road, so you apply your conscious thought to that and you end up trying to do the little things – like flicking the turn signal – unconsciously, but in this case it means that every time you try to signal a lane change you turn on your windshield wipers. A couple of times that (dry) day we saw other cars suddenly turn on their windshield wipers and we instantly knew they weren’t from Australia.

Our destination was the “penguin parade.” The smallest species of penguin in the southern hemisphere – aptly named the Blue Penguin – lives on Phillip Island. Every night about sundown the penguins come in from feeding trips into the Pacific and waddle up the hill to their burrows in the hillside. We got their in the afternoon and went to the Nobbies, a set of rocky cliffs home to some penguin burrows and a rocky island that is home to a colony of seals. We then got dinner at a family-run place. They man was of Greek descent and his shop sold a wide variety of things. Some we had to ask about – dim sim, a flake, etc. It got to the point where he started just opening dishes and showing us things – he even showed us peas, fries, and gravy, etc. I’m not sure what he thought we ate normally, but he didn’t trust us to know what anything was. That leads us to our Aussie lingo of the day: Flake=big piece of fish. Grilled, fried, etc. If you think of fish’n’chips but with one big piece of fish, that’s a flake. This is also a good time to say that the Aussies have an odd concept of what makes a hamburger good. Hamburgers over here frequently come with a slice of beet on them. The one John got here came with a slice of pineapple (which was actually a good contribution).

He was as curious about me as I was about him.

The guidebooks said that the penguin parade was spectacular but very commercialized, and they were right on both counts. They have stands built from which you can view the penguins. You can get general admission, a “Penguins Plus” package with better seats, and even a seat in an elevated and enclosed viewing stand. The whole coast gets Antarctic drafts, so it was very windy and cold, hence the enclosed stand. We ended up with cheap but superb seats. We had seen two penguins at the Nobbies, and I’m glad because they didn’t allow cameras out on the coast (because of flashes). A little before sunset we saw our first penguins, and after that it was a steady stream. The penguins are a little less than a foot tall with an almost-iridescent blue back and white chest. Waves would onto the beach and when it receded it would leave behind little white-chested penguins. It started slow, then for a while every third wave would bring a dozen or so penguins, and then it eventually tailed off again. Each group would sprint together across the open beach to some rocks, clamber over the rocks, regroup on the other side and sprint again across more open beach to the bushy dunes. Our viewing place was just behind the beach, so we watched them preen themselves and then waddle past at their own pace. They had carved little footpaths up the cliff, so it looked like they were going into a neighborhood – wide paths with many penguins, then they would break off to go to their burrow. Most of them didn’t immediately go into their burrow but would stand outside with their mate and occasionally call. It looked like a big block party. As we were watching a wallaby and its joey could be seen silhouetted against the dying sun on the top of the hill.

Day 4: Tuesday, Feb 12, Sydney

Today was our “dead day” in Sydney. We had planned to mop up whatever we hadn’t seen in Sydney. We really wanted to go to some caves west of Sydney, but we were told that the only way to go on a tour since we didn’t have our own car and public transportation doesn’t go out that far. We ended up going to the Powerhouse Museum, an old power plant converted into a natural science museum. It was one of the best museums I’ve ever been in. They had sections on the history of transportation in Australia, a lot about steam engines (they have one of the original Bolton and Watts steam engines and it’s still in working order), some about the history of style, and a lot of other eclectic displays. They also had a great… playground. They had a teeter totter with sliding weights so you could balance two different-sized people, they had a tall jungle gym, and they had several things that I can’t describe except to say they were like swings around a vertical axis.


Teeter totter fun.

Perhaps the best moment of the day might have come as we were buying tickets. I asked the lady at the counter if they had a water fountain. Her eyes glazed over and she stared at me without moving for a full five seconds. I really thought she was having to reboot her brain. She finally asks, “decorative… or to drink from?” I told her I wanted one to drink from, and she gave me directions and told me she was about to send me to a park nearby. She then told me the word that is our Aussie lingo of the day: she said that in the future I should ask for a “bublar,” but because of her accent now it was my turn to be stumped. They pronounce ar’s like an “ah,” so I repeated back, “bublah?” My sister had to jump in and translate.

We spent almost the entire day at the museum. We took a break for lunch and went to a mall food court. It was all Chinese except for an Indian and a fisn’n’chips place. It was set up like the ones I was familiar with in Singapore where you get dishes, leave them on the table, and someone cleans up. Basically the dishes that each place uses are communal between all the stalls.

Dinner that night was at a Thai restaurant down the street from our hotel. It was made of two townhouses with a wall knocked out. It was quaint and still had what I’m sure were original chandeliers and molding. It definitely would not have been possible under our ADA.

Day 3: Monday, Feb 11, Sydney

On Monday we took a tour to the Blue Mountains, a big reserve about two hours west of Sydney. We were on a minibus with about 18 people, including a pair from Berkeley who looked like they were barely 16 (they were 21) and a couple from London. Our guide, John, was from Belgium, though he had obviously been in Australia most of his life. He was a great guide, eager and knowledgeable. He had once been on the bus with a tour group when grapefruit-sized hail struck. He also talked to us about boomerangs and other aborigine tools. He said no one will demonstrate one for you and no one will insure tour companies that demo them because they are dangerous. Any user who doesn’t catch it quite correctly gets a hunk of wood in the eye. I guess it makes sense considering they were originally used as hunting instruments.

Apparently there are enough C/W fans in Australia to warrent a Brooks & Dunn concert in Olympic Park.

After a quick stop at Olympic Park we went to the mountains. The part of the mountains we visited was originally a mining site. Tourists today can go up/down from a ridge via an odd tramcar on a cable at a 52 degree angle. That may not sound too bad, but you’re basically standing on the people below you as you go down. The Blue Mountains get their name from a blue haze that hovers over the mountains. This is actually a result of the light going through evaporated eucalyptus oils from the many eucalyptus trees in the forest below. Nearby are the “Three Sisters,” a rock formation that is what remains of a ridge. Over the years the rest of the rock crumbled away, leaving three tall lumps. They and the valley are beautiful, but what I thought was actually more striking was another rock called Boar’s Head and a nearby ridge that cuts the valley in half. It’s like a mini Grand Canyon, but densely forested smaller.


The Three Sisters through the blue eucalyptus haze of the Blue Mountains.

I would like to pause for a moment to write a diatribe against all talkative and loud Japanese tourists. I’m a tourist myself, so I sure can’t begrudge them the sights, and I sure don’t mind them peacefully sharing the sights with me. I’m sure a lot of them have amazing photo albums. However, when you go somewhere and a guide is talking and along comes a horde of Japanese tourists, it means trouble. They all come and talk loudly amongst themselves, drowning out the guide or ranger who was telling you about the amazing history of this unique ecosystem. If you’re looking at an animal or something temporary, the Japanese crowd the sight like they’re trying to pack onto a rush-hour Japanese subway and out come the cameras. Big SLRs, small pocket cameras, cell phones that won’t come out in the States for another two years, and camcorders. They hold them over each other taking pictures blindly like the paparazzi mobbing a bald Britney Spears. Seriously.  I know why others must not like the stereotypical loud, forward American.

We came back via a candy shop (a “lolli shop” in Australia – that’s some free Aussie lingo) and a wild animal park. The lolli shop was interesting for the range of candies, but after a quick survey it is obvious why a lot of these never appeared on grocery shelves. There were a few good ones, however, including some that looked like OTC medicine boxes, one of which was labeled “Girth Control” and had fake dosing instructions, the other of which had a medical cross and was labeled “Emergency Chocolate” and was a fake emergency ration pack. The wild animal park was outstanding. They had all the Australian animals you’ve heard of as well as a lot of others. I could have spent a lot more time there. My favorite part was the myriad birds that were spectacularly colored and had very interesting calls.

Birds are one thing that is very different down here. Birds we see in cages in pet stores are roaming around here – cockatoos, etc. They are actually considered a nuisance because they will gnaw through windowsills, etc. There are also birds with very different calls. I can’t put them in type, but some are lower and more like voices than bird calls.

Another difference is that their light switches are “backwards.” In the US you typically flip a switch up to turn it on; over here it is reversed. I also saw some ads for apartments around a university near us. Rents ran about A$400/wk which is about US$360/wk. That’s on par with some of the more expensive apartments I’ve seen in downtown Houston, but these aren’t as nice or in as good a location (I think).

When we finished the tour and were back in Sydney we decided to take a ferry to Manly Island and get some fish and chips. As we got off the ferry on Manly someone noticed my dad’s Aggie hat and said he was from Texas, too. He turned out to be a t-sip, but we talked to him anyway. We asked him for restaurant suggestions and he ended up joining us for dinner. He was late 20’s, a petroleum engineer, and just moved to Sydney within the last week. He had visited here while working for an oil company in San Diego and liked it so much that he cold-called places until he got a job. Now he’s starting a “28 days on, 28 off” routine on a well in Papua New Guinea. I think we did him a service by having an American conversation. Manly had a really interesting boardwalk and I enjoyed our time there.

We also stopped to get some more cereal. Sydney is a very expensive city (by the locals’ admission, too.) A 2-liter of Coke costs about US$2.25, 2 liters of milk (about ½ gallon) costs US$3.25, and Fruit Loops cost A$8.00 (US$7.20). Gas is about A$1.30/liter, which comes out to about US$4.50/gallon.

Cars here are also very European with a few exceptions. There are Fords here, but I haven’t seen any Fords that they also sell in the states. They have one that is basically a modern El Camino. My brother spotted our first and only Chevy the other day, and the only Chrysler we have seen is the Chrysler 300. There are Jeeps, however. Otherwise it is all European or Asian cars. I haven’t seen any full-size pickups, though there are some small pickups and a surprising number of SUVs. A good number of the SUVs also have what looks like a vertical exhaust pipe but is actually a snorkel – an air intake so that the engine doesn’t flood when going through deep water.

The people are always an interesting observation. I can count on two hands the number of semi-overweight people (ala Titian models) I have seen. I haven’t seen a single morbidly obese person or child like you frequently see in the U.S. That may be due to my small sample population, because one thing I read said that obesity in Australia is on the rise. However, in Sydney at least it might have something to do with the fact that lots of people use public transportation (requiring some walking), the city seems to have an Austin-like atmosphere of outdoor activity, and some of it might just be genetic.

I’m realizing that besides the obvious benefits of public transportation like less pollution, less congestion, usable reading time, etc., there is another benefit to public transportation: great people-watching. As we rode home that night there were three American girls dressed to go out goofing around in a seat in front of us and taking pictures of themselves. Remember kung-fu guy from the night before? We got to that same bus stop and on comes a shaggy guy who looks out of it. However, he has a good conversation with the bus driver and he is obviously a regular, because he said he hadn’t seen the bus driver in a while and the driver replied that he had been on vacation. The guy then sits down. He talked the entire time we were on the bus trip. It seemed like his problem was that he had to always talk; if he could talk to someone he was fine, but otherwise he talked to himself. He sat down across from the American girls. Half the fun was watching/listening to the guy, but the other half of the fun was watching the girls squirm. Several times he leaned forward like he was having a conversation with them, and at one point he said that he “used to be a sensitive guy, but now I’m not a sensitive guy.”

Aussie lingo of the day: “Mate.” It really is common. It replaces friend, generic “man,” and just about any other personal pronoun. “What’s up, man?” becomes, “What’s up, mate?”

Day 2: Sunday, Feb 10, Sydney

Sunset over the Opera House.

The night before we had looked up a church we wanted to visit. Somehow my brother found out about a “Christian Reformed Church” denomination, so we tried to make our way there. We had to change buses, and on the last bus my dad asked the driver if he could tell us when to get off and the driver assured us he could. We were quite surprised when he then asked an elderly lady who got on where our cross-street was. My dad saw a street number and realized we passed the church, so we got off and had to hike back. We got to church late but really enjoyed it. Small church, maybe 180 people or so. It met in an old building with ceiling fans for ventilation. Afterwards they had snacks outside and we mingled with the crowd. John promptly made friends with another kid who liked Need for Speed (a computer game). I first talked to a guy who was studying computational linguistics (think translational algorithms) from the Netherlands who was dating a girl from Honduras. I also talked to two guys named Rick and Nick who had grown up together in the neighborhood, then Nick went to England for a job, and he was back visiting for a month. The conversation faltered a little until I asked about cricket, and then their eyes lit up. Fortunately Nick knew a little about baseball, so from time to time he would translate cricket-speak into baseball jargon for me. Rick is a cricket fanatic, but when I asked him how he watched games that took five days (yes, tournament cricket games take five days) he confessed that you don’t really watch them, you listen to them on the radio and maybe swing by after work. Since the games aren’t intense, spectators are very social. One popular pastime is taking all the beer cups drunk by your row and stacking them together to see which row has the tallest stack. He told me they could stretch from one building of the church compound to the next, which was about 30 ft. Even over five days, that’s still a lot of beer.

We were invited over to someone’s house after lunch and agreed. We ended up going home with a man named Ari and his grown daughter named Jodi. Fascinating people. We arrived at a house that could barely be seen through an overgrown yard. There was a porch that ran around the house that was completely filled with stuff. Random garage-sale stuff. Apparently Ari runs a thrift shop that has raised over $500K over the last twenty years or so for the Bible League, a non-profit that sends Bibles to Africa. He also stood for parliament as a Christian Democrat, one of the many parties in Australian politics. He has kids in five countries around the world. He is quite a world traveler himself. We got a crash course in parliamentary elections, which is quite an operation. We also met a guy named Edwin (probably Eduardo in Spanish) who is from Peru and lives with Ari and Jodi. I don’t know exactly how the invitation was put to us, but when we got to their house they served chocolate cake, Toblerone, some snack crackers, and tea. We thought that might be all we were getting, but they then served us lunch. When someone asked, Ari said that was traditional Dutch style. We got ice cream after lunch. Ari was quite a character, we all had a great time, and we stayed until dinnertime.

When we left we went to the north side of the primary bridge spanning Sydney Harbor. It is a big arch truss bridge and you can pay over $100 to climb up to the top of the arch. I’m sure the view is great, but we passed. It did provide great views of the whole harbor and the opera house, however. We spent the rest of the evening noodling around the quays and hanging around the opera house. The Sydney Opera House really is an impressive structure and was visible as we flew in. However, I would say that half of its impressiveness comes from its location all alone out on a man-made peninsula and slightly raised above the surroundings. Up close the opera house looks like a Spanish conquistador helmet and is made of lots of off-white tiles. I actually found it quite underwhelming up close.

Picture from the Opera House boardwalk.


After sundown we headed back by bus. As we pulled up to one stop I saw a guy who I immediately pegged as an oddball. He was wearing something that looked like a brown bathrobe. The front was “belted” by what looked like a piece of green ribbon. He had a Hindi-looking smear on his forehead and a scruffy beard. He got on our bus as the last passenger, walked a little past the driver, and then did a martial-arts routine that looked like a Matrix-type wind-up, a kick down the (thankfully) empty aisle, and then a clasped-hand bow. He then walked back up to the front and asked the driver to be let off. I don’t know if the driver saw what had just transpired but he agreed. After the guy got off he stood facing the bus with his hand over his heart like saluting a flag and solemnly stared at everyone in the bus as we drove off.

I’ve decided to start a new feature: Aussie expressions. Lest anyone tell you otherwise, Australian deserves its own dictionary. By the time we’re finished, you’ll know what someone is saying when they tell you that “my uni mate from Oz needs a bublar.” (Microsoft Word keeps trying to correct my spelling. While I am loathe to accept Microsoft as the authority on anything, I will take this as evidence for my position on Australian lingo.)

Aussie lingo of the day: Oz=Australia. Australia became Aus which became Oz. [Addendum: now you understand the title.]

Day 1: Saturday, Feb 9, Sydney.

Saturday consisted of walking around downtown Sydney. Sydney centers around a harbor with finger-like inlets, somewhat like the Chesapeake. I actually felt somewhat at home, since the harbor area is divided into several boardwalks called quays (pronounced “keys”) that reminded me of Singapore. The public transportation is good and extensive, but somewhat frustrating if you haven’t memorized all the routes. Unless you’re at a major bus stop, the stop doesn’t mark what buses stop there, times, routes, etc. The bus system connects with a light rail in the city, a train system for the suburbs, and a ferry system that goes across the harbor.

There is a heavy European influence, and I don’t just mean in the government, unit system, etc. Clothing styles, etc. resemble European fashions, and so do facial structures and features. You can also see a lot of Scandinavian blood. I found out that until the ‘70’s or so, Australia would practically pay Europeans to come to Australia because they wanted to populate it with “good stock.” They also almost forcibly removed aboriginal children from their culture in an attempt to raise them in a Western manner. These kids are called the “lost generation.” The state of the aborigines sounds very much like our Native Americans, but worse. Rampant alcoholism and child abuse, tribes depending on casinos, etc. There seems to be a real debate over whether to send in police to forcibly clean up what should be self-governing tribes. The newly-elected government is actually going to formally apologize to the aborigines this week. Everyone is waiting to see exactly what words he uses.

I’ve also noticed that there are internet cafés/kiosks everywhere. There will be two on opposite sides of the street, there is at least one every few blocks, and there are even computer stations in the mall. I’m not sure how much they cost, but I don’t know if that means people are willing to pay to just randomly check their e-mail from anywhere or if people don’t have or don’t pay for internet in their homes. There are also a lot of “gaming cafes” that advertise fast computers where you can blast someone away in the latest internet multiplayer game.

Last but not least, our walk downtown revealed lots of pizza and kebab shops, as in shops that sell both pizza and kebabs. It seems like an odd pairing, but maybe it tells you something about the ethnicity of those who run the stores.

We ended up eating dinner in Chinatown. It was good food, but it was also a great experience. Sydney has a very large Chinese and Japanese population for obvious reasons. I’m not sure what their immigration policies are towards these countries, but I know they actively try to keep out Indonesians and others from the Indochina peninsula. Regardless, there are a lot of young people who only seem to speak Chinese/Japanese, so I’m not sure if it means they are coming here as young kids, if their parents came here and the kids grew up only speaking their native language at home, or if they do speak English but choose to speak their native language everywhere possible. This set of the population definitely takes its dress/cultural cues from China/Japan. (I don’t mean to lump them together, but I haven’t been to Japan and thus am generalizing.) The upshot for us is that the food was very authentic, which may or may not have been a draw to some members of my family. We passed an upscale karaoke place that brought back good memories of China.

In the Land of Oz

Just in case you ever fly Qantas Airlines to Australia, you should know in advance that once the flight is 70% booked they stop doing reserved seating. After that, your seat is assigned when you arrive at check-in. We found that out after the Qantas agent booked our connecting flight from Houston to LA such that we arrived 1.5 hours before our international flight. If you’ve ever flown internationally, you know that it’s never something to look forward to. The thought of going through the longest flight of my life in a middle seat between two strangers was enough to make me think about jumping out of the airplane, so you can understand my concern at our flight arrangements. After landing in LA and double-timing it to the check-in counter, we found out that since my dad had requested 6 seats together if at all possible they had actually given us reserved seats despite the stated seating policy. It might not be parting the Red Sea, but God still does work miracles.

We arrived in Sydney about 10pm local time and took a taxi to where we are staying. It’s an old mansion converted into a hostel. They left a key and instructions in the mailbox, so we entered by ourselves in the dark. We flipped the lights on in our room and a quick survey of the room revealed a decent-looking room, 6 beds, a mini-fridge, and a spider about 5 inches across. There are 6 in my family, so it was either going to be John or the spider in the last bed and John wasn’t keen on sharing it with a spider, so we promptly dispatched the spider. That still didn’t give my sister too much comfort.

The README file

G’day, Mates!

Howdy from Australia. I’ve been under here a few days and have a few things to report.

I usually do this by e-mail, but I decided to join the new millennium and post to a blog. It should help you read this in spurts at your convenience and not lose it in your inbox. I really should make a Cliff’s Notes version. Don’t expect too much organization, because part of the reason I write these is to jot down my jumbled thoughts before I lose them. You’ll have to excuse any errors.

Before I go on, however, I need to put my usual disclaimer here. If you received my Capitol, China, or Singapore FYIs you have already heard this. If you’re new my travel logs, I hope you enjoy them and don’t get overwhelmed. I don’t always have internet access or time to write, so I tend to send these in one-week bursts that make for very long e-mails. Amazing sights are always a good reason to go somewhere, but a lot of the reason I enjoy traveling so much is the experience – the people, the culture, and the quirks. A lot of times these things strike me as odd, humorous, or just as something I had never thought about before. Consequently I like to joke about what I see in another culture. This isn’t meant to laugh at their culture, but rather to enjoy the opportunity to see into a culture from the outside. When I see something that seems out of place to me that makes me smile, I’m sure they would smile for the same (but opposite) reason if they came to the U.S. and saw our version. You will also notice that my analysis of things often evolves as time goes on and I pick up more observations. This reflects another caveat, which is that I don’t claim to be an expert on any of this. I try to learn as much as I can about a people/place, but there is a limit to what I can learn as an outsider who is on the move and only sees a small fraction of each country.

That “ethnocentricity disclaimer” aside, here are some of my thoughts.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Testing

This is a test of David's travel broadcast system.